Neighbours

What a start it’s been to life in Hungary.

A walk in the city reveals many hidden things: like this view of a dated inner city courtyard.

Days have consisted of:

  • Seeing family.
  • Going shopping and finding out where to find the best deals in town are (like TESCO Extra out on Rókusi körút here in Szeged).
  • Taking a walk in 39 degree Celsius heat either near water, or while toting potable water.
  • Being interviewed by the national M1 News channel on the subject of 39 degree heat while standing in the 39 degree summer heat.
  • Finding out where to get the best pastries, bread and coffee (see me me for the particulars).
  • Visiting our local government ‘window’ or office for registration, or immigration–just up the street.
  • Visiting the central market to buy fresh fare for cooking at home.

And when it comes to cooking at home, there’s nothing like a friendly neighbour to save the day. Only I didn’t need a cup of sugar, but a tablespoon of white vinegar.

It all began at the central market, the Mars Téri Piac. It was one of those mornings where I took our one and half year old son to shop for our weekly groceries. Winding up and down the stalls laden with fresh fare, I spied some yellow string beans. Immediately my mind was flooded with childhood memories of borsó főzelék, and I bought half a kilogram for 350 forint (abbreviated Ft. or HUF).

Fast forward to our apartment. Utilizing our favourite Hungarian recipe website Nosalty, I began cooking. Now I have this habit of repurposing leftovers and making new meals out of them. I’m also told that many men cook this way. Allow me to explain: I had no sour cream, and no vinegar–two very important ingredients for this type of stew. I thought I could pull off this Hungarian dish off without these key ingredients.

I might have been wrong.

I was in the process of putting the finishing touches on the dish. Our son was sleeping, and my darling wife was studying her Hungarian textbook. It didn’t take long to dress and parboil the string beans, and in a flash I had nearly finished . . .

. . . only my főzelék was a little more orange (due to my adding paprika), and was missing a little depth of flavour given that I used Hungarian sunflower oil (as the recipe called for) instead of cooking lard. (And oh, believe me, we are long time real butter and cooking lard converts in our household. Please consider them as viable options for flavourful cooking in your world too!)

It was time to taste the finished product. It was still missing something. I knew I had to ask a neighbour. My darling wife objected, but I was compelled to do so. And did I make the right choice?
I just had to ask. Given that my grandmother is living a few hundred kilometres away and the neighbour is right next door, I caved. I needed someone’s advice.

I asked. It only took moments before she shoved a classic Hungarian housekeeping cookbook in my hands, a bottle of vinegar, and a dollop of heavy sour cream telling me: “tejföl adja azt a jó mélységet, meg az ecet azt az igazi babfőzelék ízet.”
In other words, sour cream gives that real depth, and vinegar the real flavour of the dish.

“Cookbook: Home-keeping Advice.” Thank you to author, Miss Horváth Ilona, and to MNDSZ press, 1956.

I was enlightened.

With my arms full of goodies, I ran home and dashed it all together. And boy, did it taste like the főzelék I grew up eating. Thanks mum and dad! (It might have been just a little better if I didn’t add so much flour to my roux)

Sigh.

Home cooking aside, even here in Hungary life goes on. One summer day melts into the next. Sunshine turns to rain, or into the odd thunder shower here in Szeged, the ‘city of sunshine.’

Today’s outdoor symphony performance, for example, was nearly cancelled due to rain. Tomorrow, however, holds the promise of Beethoven in all his symphonic glory in the Szeged Deo Optimo Maximo (hence DÓM) square.

Summer, too, creeps slowly toward its end; or does it? There are still wines to be tasted, strolls to be taken and much ice cream to be eaten.

One only hopes that wherever you are, either here or abroad, that the summer is sweet, the evenings cool and by the time September rolls around, you have many fond memories to tide you over well into the next season . . .

O Aestas Optimas Maximas!

O Almighty Summer!

Days

So much has happened since we’ve arrived.

We’ve been to visit family, family has been by to visit us. There have been long road trips, countryside visits, busy weekends and fantastic evenings. We’ve enjoyed it all.

Photos speak for themselves. Here are a few with captions detailing some of what we’ve been up to.

A quaint fountain at Egerszalók Barlanglakások heritage park.

The view out of a borpince or wine cellar in the same Egerszalók heritage park.

Muskátli or geraniums nestled in a window at the same park.

Szegedi dóm tér has a variety of collegiums for the school of theology nearby. Just couldn’t leave this picture out.

Fast forward to this weekend. Last night we had the pleasure to catch Verdi’s Rigoletto screened in the plaza of the famous Szegedi dóm or Votive Church. Just before that? A military marching band caught our attention over on Kárász utca (Kárász street). And on the way home? Dance music and lights lit up the Klauzál tér, another nearby plaza. Cafe tables were filled with people sipping, tasting various delights and enjoying the evening.

This afternoon we ended up on the Tisza rakpart (paved river bank) and we danced to live ethnic Greek music and sipped Ouzo and Metaxa. Walking home among the turn of the century buildings past busy restaurants added to the summer buzz.

Next week begins our week of paperwork. The time has come to register ourselves here, continue to look for work and to make everything official. But more on that later.

Hoping that wherever you are this weekend it’s summery, warm and memorable.

Εβίβα! (That’s cheers! in Greek)

Arrival

Photo (above): Szentkirályi Alexandra

We’re in Hungary.

After a flood of information researching current entry requirements, it is a relief to have arrived at our destination.

A few highlights (both good and otherwise) from our travels included:

Needing arrive sooner than three hours before our flight to check in special luggage (a stroller). As a result, we had little time to rest prior to boarding.
The in-flight meal was not the usual fare. Some people must have known this and toted   lunch bags on our physically distanced flight. Then again, some people don't prefer     airline food.
We received a bag of mixed snacks instead (crackers, cream cheese, a soda, banana and   granola bar). We were also served a hot porridge with compote–and were a little peckish to say the least.
Amsterdam's Schiphol airport was better than we expected. Most people wore masks, but,  as the airport website suggested, more venues were open to travellers. Nearly business   as usual. We enjoyed whatever we could get our hands on to eat: an excellent tuna on      ciabatta melt, fresh OJ, an espresso and a cappuccino.
Smooth arrival in Budapest including transfer to our accommodation. A slight mix up     which meant two taxi rides and lugging a series of suitcases to the third floor of our  'new' accommodation.

In sum, we are resting and settling in. Jet lag seems a little harder this time around with temperatures near thirty degrees celsius plus humidity to boot.

But with travel and especially moves abroad comes change. Some realities are often different than expected. We are okay with the fact, and are celebrating the little successes every day.

Hoping wherever you are this summer you are enjoying yourself. After all that’s what summers are for! More news to come soon. Szia!

Salzburgi túrós szelet (Salzburg and cottage cheese slice) after dinner at A Capella Cukrászda.

There were thunder showers! Hungarian ethnographer Mr. Bálint Sándor (1904 – 1980) didn’t seem to mind us retreating from the rains and cosying up beside him…

Begin Again

Over the past months we have been waiting—and oh, so much has happened . . .

Tomorrow we are attempting to travel again.

Stay tuned for updates to follow.

Hungary, here we come!

Whirlwinded

Photo credit: Szentkirályi Alexandra

There is really not much to say – everyone knows what’s been going on. Our sympathies, thoughts and prayers are with all . . .

Everyone’s story has been affected. I can tell you about ours.

Ever since April of 2018 on our first family trip to Hungary, something began to stir. One of us mentioned that they loved the view while driving in the northern county of Nógrád megye. Another held head in hand before a shot of espresso at a divine restaurant. The rest was almost history.

We began to dream about living in Hungary.

We decided to make the move. Last year was filled with all sorts of planning. What would we have to do (and give up) to make this work? We started looking at some reliable sources about what to consider when moving abroad. We recalled past trips we’d taken noting things like travel insurance, international driver’s licenses, embassy locations and the like.

Then the subject of visas came up. It wasn’t until recently we discovered that a Hungarian vice-consulate had opened in Vancouver. Fact finding revealed that with Hungarian parents and/or grandparents I too qualified for citizenship. Paperwork and appointments behind, we now have what we need.

Wind the clock back a few weeks. We had it all planned out when things began to change.

Our move was put on hold. We awoke early to try the airlines to change or cancel tickets. And today we are living out of suitcases. One part of me refuses to unpack. Another part struggles to settle while waiting for things to change.

And why move abroad? Reasons include being close to family that we’ve never been close to before. Giving our children the chance to grow alongside relatives. And with very little family in Canada, it feels as if ‘home’ is in Hungary. We want to learn more of the language, discover our heritage, the cuisines–and simply be in Europe.

And yet we remain. We count ourselves blessed.

There are others presently facing circumstances that we cannot imagine. We acknowledge the fact. In the meantime we have a small Hungarian flag on hand, time to study up on the language, keep in touch with family and maybe even read a few books.

We sit, we wait, we pray. Outside rain turns to sun. Leaves grow, flowers bloom. Spring is here. We go into nature, look around and take a breath. The world outside our door has been waiting for us. Now we have the time to enjoy it.

Flags both here and abroad continue to wave: farewell to the past, and hello to what is to come–and I believe the future is bright.

Take care for now.

Viszontlátásra, Magyarország.

Inventions

I happened across this interesting video the other day. “Hungary – World of Potentials” (2010) is a seven-minute clip following a young couple on a Hungarian holiday tour. The clip lists a sampling of Hungarian inventions while showcasing the beauty of the country.

Written and directed by Isti Madarász and produced for the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Trade, even the accompanying music is inspiring. Balkan Fanatik’s music delights as you view some of the beauty–and genius–of the Magyar nation. Who knew that Hungary has so much to offer?

All that’s left if for us to discover it for ourselves . . .

You have to ask yourself: Why would we ever leave?

Song: Balkan Fanatik’s “Repüly Madár” (‘Fly Bird, Fly’) featuring Nóri Kovács
Music by Jorgosz & Lepe (BF)
Produced by AERA Property & Destination (aera.hu)

Onward

We spent a good few days in Szeged. And at last was time to head for the Budapest train.

There was an unfortunate feeling in leaving. We had a comfortable apartment and had come to know our building. We were used to the dated yellow elevator that said ‘ka-thunk’ every time we landed. We got to know the Lipóti Pékség downstairs and had sat in for a few coffees. We bought our first szaloncukor of the season there, too–but more on that traditional Christmas candy later. We knew which pogácsa or biscuits to buy at A Capella Cukrázda for the odd morning breakfast. And the sunrises out over Anna Fürdő from our apartment window? Well, I daresay it felt like home.

A typical túrós or cottage cheese pogácsa. Perfect for breakfast with tea or coffee. Recipe at nosalty.hu

But that is the beauty in a trip like this. When you don’t need to rush from place to place day after day. When you have time to slow down and breathe it is a completely different experience. Slow travel, I imagine, is something just like this. But Szeged. I think we were charmed by this beautiful city.

So it came time to have our last coffee at Hatos Rétes and make our way to Szeged’s vasútállomás (train station). We made sure to get our bearings a day or two beforehand and boarded the smart looking villamos or tram line heading southward to the station.

Szeged’s vasútállomás. The above ground tram stops right in front of the station. More info at szegedtourism.hu

A great tip is to buy your tickets the day before–especially if you are travelling on a busy weekend or holiday. This is what we did considering that November first is All Saint’s Day and quite a large holiday in Hungary. We were also fortunate to travel to the town of Kecskemét some ninety kilometres north of Szeged the day before. The trip gave us the advantage of familiarizing ourselves with train and buying our tickets for the next day’s departure in advance.

Bags and all, we rumbled along arriving just minutes later at the station. The recently rennovated space, by no means modern, reproduces the classic feel outside the station within. We had a sheer excitement for rail travel. We’ve done bus and car trips back home, but the feeling of triple checking our tickets and making sure we’re on the right platform early enough is exhilarating. Not to mention what it feels like to have your tickets validated on board. And a big note? Don’t use the restroom while the train is in-station. Wait till you’re underway. Let’s just say that things work as they’re meant to when the train is finally in motion.

The scenery from the car is unlike any other experience. The view on a plane from thirty-thousand feet? Amazing. From a car? Nothing like it. But from a train? It feels like you are slicing through the country through farms, towns, roadways and the like. You get to see a glimpse of it all for yourself as you glide on by. All you have to do is watch. Maybe it’s like plane travel but at ground level. Nah, nothing compares. Anyways, we’re fans. Let’s just say we’ll be looking forward to more rail travel in the future.

After about two hours we were nearing the train station near Budapest’s Ferenc Liszt airport. We knew we were close. Then the long crawl along the tracks as we approached the Nyugati Pályaudvar or the Western Train Station. Nyugati, as opposed to the larger and more ornate Keleti (Eastern) Station, manages more domestic rail travel. Keleti deals with more international rail to say, Austria or Germany.

Nyugati Pályaudvar. Photo credit Balkányi László for welovebudapest.com

We crawled along, our anticipation growing. We creeped up the long platforms nearing the terminus. Doors hissed open. Rows of tracks and platforms greeted us inside the grand interior. You get used to rail travel pretty quick. Unless you’re sleeping, you begin to realize that people put on their coats and ready their bags as they near their stop. We did the same.

We stepped off the car shuttling one suitcase after another down on to the platform working up a sweat in the process. The hiss of other trains around. The sound of clanging metal railcars. The muffled sound of voices. Announcements echoing high up toward the glass roofing overhead.

We had arrived.

Next to find our accommodation. We hit the streets melting into the crowds outside. Newspaper sales here, ticket information there. The endless building maintenance all around. Welcome to the city.

We were ready for whatever was coming next. And so off we went . . .

Árkád

Welcome to the Árkád.

In this post

  1. How to find Szeged Árkád
  2. Our Experience
  3. Some of what’s on offer

The name boasts just what it is, a shopping arcade. Now arcades have been around a long time. Ancient Grecian arcades were a form of architecture combining arch and pillar into one unified structure–much like the famous colosseum. However, today we’re considering the shopping arcade, the kind with covered walkways that houses a variety of storefronts.

Consider Japan. Various city centres have shopping arcades not unlike these long Grecian passages. They are in fact covered pedestrian-friendly walking streets and are found in many other countries as well. Modern shopping malls are something similar. With the addition of various levels and unique building design, there you have it. The shopping mall. We’ve gone from Ancient Greece, to Japanese shopping arcades and to malls just like that. Now on to the Szeged Árkád.

How to Find Szeged Árkád

Szeged’s Árkád shopping centre is located rather central to its downtow core. If you’ve travelled by bus to get here, you need only pass the Mars téri piac and past the JYSK. Árkád is just next door. Day or night you just can’t miss the hatalmas (large) glowing signage and entrance along the Londoni körút (London ring road).

Árkád, not too far from the city centre.

Our Experience

During our stay we visited the mall once or twice. And both visits were great. But in all our excitement we walked around way too long and ended up collapsing into a cafe to refuel and recharge.

And on the subject, there are a few things to note about malls in Hungary. Don’t be fooled! When you step in the elevator ground level is “0” or zero. This was new for us. We ended up travelling up and down past our destination floor more than once, and I think our confused looks entertained other shoppers. And note, if you’re heading below ground level select “-1” or “-2” accordingly. These minor differences didn’t take long to get used to at all.

As for the Water Closet or WCs, be prepared as you often have to pay a minimal fee–about 200 HUF (roughly a dollar)–to use the facilities.

Some of What’s On Offer

SiNSAY

RESERVED

Ah, the shops at Árkád. We were delighted to see Zara and H&M. The fashion at these stores really ‘fits’ the streets here. It’s Europe after all. We ended up buying a tiny pair of shoes for our toddler. Another neat shop was SiNSAY, a sort of youthful boutique boasting all sorts of funky and colourful fashion. We again ended up shopping for our toddler here.


Worth mention is RESERVED. This shop is a lot like Zara but with more muted, mature overtones. With cool vibes throughout including block coloured fabrics and a few prints, I would definitely return to shop here. One item of note was a Freddie Mercury portrait t-shirt. Nothing says cool like a printed tee.

And finally, nothing says shopping mall like a food court. To keep things brief, I strongly suggest that instead of a burger and fries you ought to enjoy the Hungarian főzelék (a delightful vegetable-like creamy stew) of the day or cigány pecsenye (gypsy-style fried and seasoned meat) dish with köret (sides of potato, salad, etc.) Try it all.

Forget Jack’s Burger next door. Eat Magyaros (Hungarian) and don’t forget the Erős Pista (Hungarian hot pepper paste)!

This was just one day at Árkád, and boy was it fun. It’s interesting how shopping, something we do in our own parts of the world, can be so similar and yet different somewhere new. When we travel we learn. That’s something we definitely love to do. And when it comes to food, order something you may not be sure of. You might just be pleasantly surprised.

Hatos

From L to R: kávé, rétes and palacsinta (a Hungarian crêpe). Yum.

Now this word means six. Or in this particular form “six-” as in six-layered rétes found at Hatos Rétes in Szeged. ‘Hah-tosh’ and ‘ray-tesh.’ There, you’ve got it. Now you’ve just got to go and taste it. But a few things first-

What is rétes?

Well, rétes is a favourite Hungarian dessert. Yes, one of many favourite desserts. It is a pastry made from an unleavened dough worked thin and oftentimes crispy thin like parchment paper. Filo, fillo, phyllo? You got it. A lot like filo-pastry. Layers of the stuff laid out and filled with glorious ground poppy seed, sugar and Hungarian sour cherries (megy), or stuffed with sweetened cottage cheese, or spiced apple, semi-sweet baking squash–oh! the list goes on and on. Make a length (like that of a small table-for-two tablecloth), fill and roll it over and over again on itself. Bake low and slow. Crisp, delicate, papery-golden brown. Cut neatly into sort of fist-sized parcels and serve. De-licious.

Now some attest that in Hungary rétes has roots in the sixteenth century and is Turkish-inspired. Balkan, too. Think baklava. Either way today’s rétes shares a likeness to certain Austrian and Serbian desserts as well. During the Austro-Hungarian Empire the rolled and filled rétes really took off. And in Hungarian tradition many a lakodalom or wedding feast is finished with this fine dessert. It has a history, it tastes good and by golly if you haven’t had some you should. There is even suggestion that back in the day the pastry flour was ordered direct from Hungary to make the dessert abroad. Pastry chefs were even sent to Budapest to learn how to make this delicate sweet.

Now that’s a lot of ingredients to the story.

Back to Szeged. As mentioned we hung out around Klauzál tér quite a bit. I mean, we don’t have lovely statuaries or cobbled squares full of ornate windows and buildings and simply divine walk-in courtyards where I’m from. So we kind of took advantage of the views here. There is so much history here–and so much to eat and enjoy.

We often visited A Cappella Cukrászda on the nearby corner, but as so often happens, with a little wandering and a willingness to try something new we stumbled across a quiet and content-looking café a few doors down. Tables were arranged welcomingly near the entrance. We noticed the low windows and the mild green exterior. We wandered up and stepped inside pulling the cafe door shut behind us.

Comfortable lighting and a few simple, cozy tables around. A glowing case full of delights like mákos and diós guba (sweet poppy seed or walnut-coated bite sized rounds of cake soaked in rich milk and vanilla–wow!) or delicately sweet linzer cookies. But where is the rétes, you ask? Well, as any good bank might they keep the goods behind the counter. And Hatos Rétes is full of ‘the good stuff.’

I’ve actually never seen so many kinds of rétes in one place. At least two dozen. I won’t list all the flavours here. You had better go and find out for yourself. Let’s just say one favourite was the sweet cottage cheese filled rétes with a bit of homemade jam (pictured above). I don’t know what else to say.

You order. You pay. You sit. You wait. You choose your roast of coffee or hot beverage. Sit in or outside. You hear the whistle and hiss of a side of local milk being steamed for your Americano. You hear the machine grumbling as it pulls your double espresso. The next thing you see is a smiling face bringing your rétes and coffee to your table. A family business, I might add. Like so many places in Hungary you find a real love for what people do. And here at Hatos Rétes it’s in the food and it’s in the service.

We came back again and again for a few days. It was the last place we visited for a morning coffee before heading for our Budapest-bound train. We got to know the owners a little. And it was a little hard to say goodbye. “Viszont látásra,” we said.

“See you again.”

And I think we will.

Now do you know what rétes is? If you don’t, then find some. If you know someone that makes it, make sure you get a taste. And if one day you happen to be in Hungary and have a little time to travel south of Budapest to Szeged,

I know a good place you ought to try . . .

Anna.

Anna Furdő in all its thermal glory

Anna Fürdő in all its thermal glory

We spent a just over a week in Szeged. One must-see attraction was Anna Fürdő (fuhr-dho). Hungary has many hot springs which have been utilised for their unique and healing properties since Roman times. In operation since 1896, Szeged’s Anna Fürdő boasts its own unique waters. Originating from a spring some 944 meters below ground, the water at the fountain head is steamy 49 degrees Celsius. The waters are famed to aid in locomotive, digestive and respiratory ailments, just to name a few. The water can also be sipped from fountains running near the baths day and night.

We were still getting settled after arrival. I had a few hours to myself and wandered over for a dip. Now having lived abroad in Japan, I have developed quite a liking for hot springs. And yes, here in Hungary you are required to wear swim trunks in the baths.

The general expectation is that you come prepared. One needs at least their own towel, suit and slippers. Wandering into the interior, you pull on the large ornate outer doors to enter the building. The Turkish inspired exterior melts away once inside. Abounding tile work presides. After payment at the wicket one wanders left or right to change rooms. Private booths allow you to change in peace, with more lockers and showers found up the half-spiral staircase on the second level.

As per usual, shower before you enter. Politely observe other bathers. Relax and enjoy. Take the cold plunge in the soaking tubs. Across from them are warm jetted basins. Showers are intermingled throughout the facility. Cleanliness and proper etiquette is expected. But the experience of others lounging and soaking with eyes closed or having muted conversations is therapeutic. People come here to enjoy, relax and unwind. Slipping into the different thermal pools and observing others doing the same makes you feel like you’re slipping into their world and deeper into the local culture. You may not speak Hungarian, but when you do as the locals do you feel all the bit more like you belong. And belonging feels good.

The Grand Experience Pool

The extensive tile work is amazing throughout. If one has an eye for symmetry and colour there is plenty to hold the attention while resting in the baths. There is also a spacious courtyard full of lounging chairs and tables for guests to soak up summer sun or utilize while enjoying the büfé or small restaurant inside. Other areas include a children’s splash pool, thermal pools, a great variety of saunas, swimming areas and the like. We ended up at the fürdő twice–the second time with the family once I had checked it all out.

If you’ve never been to a bath, be brave. Take one or two hours, which is barely enough, and settle in to the experience. Walk, don’t run inside. And if you’re lucky and get completely swept up in the experience, little compares to the feeling. Having soaked, dozed and rested in thermal waters, you feel almost like you’ve just been on a holiday after a good soak.

Szeged has much to offer including great food and cafes near the famous Tisza river. So if you’ve got the time, go to Anna for a soak. Then wander over to a cukrászda (or pâtisserie) for a real good slice of cake or a sweet treat with a fine coffee. I find that the simple things in life are some of its greatest pleasures. Goodness knows I haven’t got my fill of them yet.

Reminds me of my time spent living in a Japanese fishing village where I took the local bus to a tiny hot spring in the mountains after the work week for a relaxing soak . . . But that’s a story for another time. Why not take a visit to Anna Fürdő where for only 2000 HUF the thermal waters are worth every-

last

drop.

Photos courtesy of termalfurdok.com