December.

It’s pretty cold and grey outside. In our apartment we have good old, and somewhat updated, radiators under most windows. It has been a hoot trying to figure our how this heating system works. There is a wireless remote control that activates the boiler in the pantry that circulates hot water through the radiators. Each radiator has a dial on it so you can choose its heating intensity. Not bad, but a little different than central heating.

The windows? Different story. Dated single panel turn-to-shut bronzed latches on the inner and outer casings. There’s a nice wide sill in the space between the panes. They are beautiful windows, and the apartment is charming with its high ceilings and tall doors. Heating this space, however, takes technique. Fortunately, we can close and open doors to our four rooms to keep the desired space warm. We even bought ‘window pillows’ to catch the draft that might creep in from outside.

We have our small Christmas tree too. It is a lovely four foot tall golden larch. Christmas is coming! In town there are no Christmas markets allowed. One shop has smartly rented its balcony to a small stall that sells freshly toasted funnel cakes legally ‘above’ and not at street level. People, it seems, still find ways to make it cozy and bright. We’ve found our favourite spot for mulled wine in Oroszlán utca. They make the drink with a heavy Portugieser wine. We still stop in at Hatos Rétes for a quick bite of sugary poppyseed rétes. We’re making the season work despite the continued requirement for mask wearing while outside–and the eight p.m. to five a.m. curfew. The promise is that it may change January 11th. That’s our new date.

And what about Christmas? Well, we hope that during the upcoming break from work we might find iceskating, wintry strolls, gingerbread and other toasty delights despite current restrictions. But nevertheless, with paper snowflakes pasted to our windows and some warm LED Christmas lights adorning the frames, Christmas will come all the same. We’re looking forward to it.

Hoping that wherever you are, you are keeping warm and bright!

Oh, and keep up a steady stream of coffee and/or tea. It helps!

Happy December!