Onward

We spent a good few days in Szeged. And at last was time to head for the Budapest train.

There was an unfortunate feeling in leaving. We had a comfortable apartment and had come to know our building. We were used to the dated yellow elevator that said ‘ka-thunk’ every time we landed. We got to know the Lipóti Pékség downstairs and had sat in for a few coffees. We bought our first szaloncukor of the season there, too–but more on that traditional Christmas candy later. We knew which pogácsa or biscuits to buy at A Capella Cukrázda for the odd morning breakfast. And the sunrises out over Anna Fürdő from our apartment window? Well, I daresay it felt like home.

A typical túrós or cottage cheese pogácsa. Perfect for breakfast with tea or coffee. Recipe at nosalty.hu

But that is the beauty in a trip like this. When you don’t need to rush from place to place day after day. When you have time to slow down and breathe it is a completely different experience. Slow travel, I imagine, is something just like this. But Szeged. I think we were charmed by this beautiful city.

So it came time to have our last coffee at Hatos Rétes and make our way to Szeged’s vasútállomás (train station). We made sure to get our bearings a day or two beforehand and boarded the smart looking villamos or tram line heading southward to the station.

Szeged’s vasútállomás. The above ground tram stops right in front of the station. More info at szegedtourism.hu

A great tip is to buy your tickets the day before–especially if you are travelling on a busy weekend or holiday. This is what we did considering that November first is All Saint’s Day and quite a large holiday in Hungary. We were also fortunate to travel to the town of Kecskemét some ninety kilometres north of Szeged the day before. The trip gave us the advantage of familiarizing ourselves with train and buying our tickets for the next day’s departure in advance.

Bags and all, we rumbled along arriving just minutes later at the station. The recently rennovated space, by no means modern, reproduces the classic feel outside the station within. We had a sheer excitement for rail travel. We’ve done bus and car trips back home, but the feeling of triple checking our tickets and making sure we’re on the right platform early enough is exhilarating. Not to mention what it feels like to have your tickets validated on board. And a big note? Don’t use the restroom while the train is in-station. Wait till you’re underway. Let’s just say that things work as they’re meant to when the train is finally in motion.

The scenery from the car is unlike any other experience. The view on a plane from thirty-thousand feet? Amazing. From a car? Nothing like it. But from a train? It feels like you are slicing through the country through farms, towns, roadways and the like. You get to see a glimpse of it all for yourself as you glide on by. All you have to do is watch. Maybe it’s like plane travel but at ground level. Nah, nothing compares. Anyways, we’re fans. Let’s just say we’ll be looking forward to more rail travel in the future.

After about two hours we were nearing the train station near Budapest’s Ferenc Liszt airport. We knew we were close. Then the long crawl along the tracks as we approached the Nyugati Pályaudvar or the Western Train Station. Nyugati, as opposed to the larger and more ornate Keleti (Eastern) Station, manages more domestic rail travel. Keleti deals with more international rail to say, Austria or Germany.

Nyugati Pályaudvar. Photo credit Balkányi László for welovebudapest.com

We crawled along, our anticipation growing. We creeped up the long platforms nearing the terminus. Doors hissed open. Rows of tracks and platforms greeted us inside the grand interior. You get used to rail travel pretty quick. Unless you’re sleeping, you begin to realize that people put on their coats and ready their bags as they near their stop. We did the same.

We stepped off the car shuttling one suitcase after another down on to the platform working up a sweat in the process. The hiss of other trains around. The sound of clanging metal railcars. The muffled sound of voices. Announcements echoing high up toward the glass roofing overhead.

We had arrived.

Next to find our accommodation. We hit the streets melting into the crowds outside. Newspaper sales here, ticket information there. The endless building maintenance all around. Welcome to the city.

We were ready for whatever was coming next. And so off we went . . .