Anna.

Anna Fürdő in all its thermal glory

We spent a just over a week in Szeged. One must-see attraction was Anna Fürdő (fuhr-dho). Hungary has many hot springs which have been utilised for their unique and healing properties since Roman times. In operation since 1896, Szeged’s Anna Fürdő boasts its own unique waters. Originating from a spring some 944 meters below ground, the water at the fountain head is steamy 49 degrees Celsius. The waters are famed to aid in locomotive, digestive and respiratory ailments, just to name a few. The water can also be sipped from fountains running near the baths day and night.

We were still getting settled after arrival. I had a few hours to myself and wandered over for a dip. Now having lived abroad in Japan, I have developed quite a liking for hot springs. And yes, here in Hungary you are required to wear swim trunks in the baths.

The general expectation is that you come prepared. One needs at least their own towel, suit and slippers. Wandering into the interior, you pull on the large ornate outer doors to enter the building. The Turkish inspired exterior melts away once inside. Abounding tile work presides. After payment at the wicket one wanders left or right to change rooms. Private booths allow you to change in peace, with more lockers and showers found up the half-spiral staircase on the second level.

As per usual, shower before you enter. Politely observe other bathers. Relax and enjoy. Take the cold plunge in the soaking tubs. Across from them are warm jetted basins. Showers are intermingled throughout the facility. Cleanliness and proper etiquette is expected. But the experience of others lounging and soaking with eyes closed or having muted conversations is therapeutic. People come here to enjoy, relax and unwind. Slipping into the different thermal pools and observing others doing the same makes you feel like you’re slipping into their world and deeper into the local culture. You may not speak Hungarian, but when you do as the locals do you feel all the bit more like you belong. And belonging feels good.

The Grand Experience Pool

The extensive tile work is amazing throughout. If one has an eye for symmetry and colour there is plenty to hold the attention while resting in the baths. There is also a spacious courtyard full of lounging chairs and tables for guests to soak up summer sun or utilize while enjoying the büfé or small restaurant inside. Other areas include a children’s splash pool, thermal pools, a great variety of saunas, swimming areas and the like. We ended up at the fürdő twice–the second time with the family once I had checked it all out.

If you’ve never been to a bath, be brave. Take one or two hours, which is barely enough, and settle in to the experience. Walk, don’t run inside. And if you’re lucky and get completely swept up in the experience, little compares to the feeling. Having soaked, dozed and rested in thermal waters, you feel almost like you’ve just been on a holiday after a good soak.

Szeged has much to offer including great food and cafes near the famous Tisza river. So if you’ve got the time, go to Anna for a soak. Then wander over to a cukrászda (or pâtisserie) for a real good slice of cake or a sweet treat with a fine coffee. I find that the simple things in life are some of its greatest pleasures. Goodness knows I haven’t got my fill of them yet.

Reminds me of my time spent living in a Japanese fishing village where I took the local bus to a tiny hot spring in the mountains after the work week for a relaxing soak . . . But that’s a story for another time. Why not take a visit to Anna Fürdő where for only 2000 HUF the thermal waters are worth every-

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Photos courtesy of termalfurdok.com